Wednesday 5 8 19 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. This time I cautiously gave Hookipa a 7 at 6am, but when I got in the water, I realized it was more like an 8. And between 9 and 10am, the texture, shape and even color of the waves made for a 9. When I surfed it again around noon, the wind downgraded it to a 6 (but an uncrowded one). Just to remind you guys of how often and quickly conditions change.

This was a swell that made me reconsider 9-10s swells at Hookipa. Less power than higher periods, but more consistent with a lot more peaks and a lot less closeouts. In the end, what counts is the wind. You take it out of the equation, all period and sizes and directions look good, really.

This is a young Rip Curl sponsored Hi-Tech team rider that I failed to identify. This turn was sick.

Similar action by Kai Lenny who, lineup gossip, seems to be extremely fired up by just regular surfing. As a matter of fact I see him surfing more often than ever. The part that impresses me the most is the speed he gets. He looks like he has footstraps, but he doesn’t. Got to improve closing those maneuvers though.

Here’s another remarkable shot taken by reader James Dawson at Makena yesterday. He sent me a bunch and they all have incredible colors.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore
Barbers
2.3ft @ 13s from 188° (S)

Lanai
2.1ft @ 13s from 198° (SSW)

The Lahaina side has had wonderful waves for the last two days. Three things made this swell so good:
1) it was not a big and publicized swell (unlike the one we’ll get in the weekend). 2ft 14s is magic number for Lahaina
2) the lack of trades kept the mid day onshores mild
3) the good waves on the north shore kept the crowd low (together with point 1).
Below is a solid head high set that I grabbed from the webcam yesterday at sunset. Lanai was reading 2.3ft 14s. Today is 2.1ft 13s, it will be a bit smaller, but there should still be fun waves.

North shore
Pauwela
3.9ft @ 9s from 55° (ENE)

The direction of the 9-10s waves that have blessed the north shore in the last three days has followed the path of the local low (the one that made for the Kona a few days ago) and today is coming from 55 degrees. This swell should be on the decline all day, but still provide small and clean waves for Hookipa and the east facing shores. Max head high is my call, but the average size should be less than that.

Wind map at noon. Lovely purple all around the island till 10ish.

North Pacific has a couple of NW fetches.

South Pacific still pumping waves our way. Some directly (red circle), some through angular spreading of a swell aimed to the Americas (blue circle). Next week should be really good.

Morning sky.

Antiques

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