Sunday 11 10 19 morning call

Another great day of surfing in Maui, both on the north and south shore yesterday. I surfed Hookipa twice and in between I took these photos.

Tanner Hendrickson loading up in the bottom turn…

…so that he can throw radical turns off the top.

Kane keeps impressing me with the fluidity of his lines and his relaxed, John John-like style.

What’s wrong with the guy on the left?!

3am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
3.8ft @ 13s from 216° (SW)

2ft @ 12s from 225° (SW)


2.6ft @ 15s from 187° (S)

1.9ft @ 13s from 204° (SSW)
Pretty different numbers and directions at the buoys, that’s when you rely even more on the observation of the fetches from a week ago. Below is a collage (Oct 1 to 6) I posted already, for your reference. Once again, to me it seems that the fetch of the 4th is the strongest, so I expect the swell to be reinforced tomorrow.

That seems to be confirmed from what I saw at the Samoa buoy a couple of days ago: a clear boost during the night of the 6th. From the post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui’s shadow lines we learn that at 15s it takes 4 days for the swell to get here, so it will be interesting to see if the same will happen locally tonight.

In the meantime, of course, check the Lahaina webcam to see today’s conditions. How’s that hominous looking 6am wall of water?

North shore
4.8ft @ 12s from 318° (NW)

4.3ft @ 10s from 339° (NNW)


3.7ft @ 12s from 333° (NNW)

3.2ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)


5.4ft @ 13s from 344° (NNW)

2.5ft @ 11s from 347° (NNW)
2.1ft @ 9s from 16° (NNE) 
NNW swell coming down with the period, but still a solid 5.4ft 13s at Pauwela at 3am. Below is the graph of the three reported buoys on which I noticed:
1) the swell had a pronounced and narrow peak at the NW buoy between 7 and 11am yesterday. A little more relaxed peak happened at Waimea during the night, so we can expect the swell to be peaking in Maui right now. The trend during the day is going to be of a slow decline, but we’re probably talking head and a half plus to start with.
2) Waimea reached 5ft, Pauwela 6ft. For a swell from the NW-NNW, that is not possible under any circumstances, I’m gonna blame the sensitivity of the buoys or the elaboration of the data that Surfline does (most likely this last one).
Wind map at noon. Should be windless till 10-11am.

North Pacific only has a couple of tiny fetches today. Nothing to worry about, the jet stream is looking good for the whole week: more storms and swells to come and trades at bay until next weekend.

South Pacific has a fetch in the Tasman Sea and a small SSE one, which is the tail of a much bigger one aiming east of us of which we should get some angular spreading.

Morning sky.

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