Saturday 5 11 19 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. The waves on the south shore were, as everywhere on Maui when there’s no wind, of extremely high quality.

I had already selected this this bail out into the barrel shot when I saw the girl duck diving on the background.

Contributing photographer James Dawson went to Makena again and sent me some shots of the shore break. This is my pick.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
4.6ft @ 13s from 187° (S)

3ft @ 15s from 188° (S)

1.2ft @ 10s from 181° (S)
1.1ft @ 22s from 188° (S)
1ft @ 11s from 193° (SSW)
First pulse of the swell peaking at 3ft 15s at Lanai, with the second bigger one starting to show at 1.1ft 22s. When I predicted 26+ readings a week ago, I forgot there was going to be already significant swell in the water. In order for a buoy to be able to register slivers (like 0.1ft) of any particular period, there needs to be very little other energy around, so that’s not going to happen this time. But a reading of 1.1ft 22s (pretty rare itself) suggests that there actually was very low energy of higher periods before that.

Below are the maps of May 5, 6, 7 and 8 showing the directly aimed fetches (red circles) and the ones aiming east of us of which I believe we’ll receive some angular spreading energy (blue circles). That should make for a whole week of waves after the peak during Sunday/Monday. And the week after that is looking promising too!

So, plenty waves on tap also today, here’s some off limits areas that might help you pick the right spot:
– Breakwall will have a HSA contest both today and tomorrow
– Mala will have the nose riding contest tomorrow
– Dumps has been closed since March 28th due to shark sighting. Here’s an article that “explains” why, from which I grabbed this sentence: Seven black tip reef sharks were spotted frequenting the shallow waters Tuesday, though no tiger sharks were spotted.
That is the equivalent of closing a pice of a Maui highway because someone saw seven Toyota Tacoma’s on it…

North shore

4.6ft @ 10s from 327° (NW)
2.8ft @ 9s from 326° (NW)

2.8ft @ 8s from 357° (N)
2.1ft @ 11s from 315° (NW)
4.6ft @ 8s from 39° (NE)
Some buoys still have some NW energy, some others (like Pauwela) only have 8s NE energy. Whatever is in the water, there’s waves at Hookipa (I can hear them), and I will report from there hopefully around 6am.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has a tiny and distant NW fetch and a small but nearby N one associated with the low that is killing the trades.
South Pacific has a fetch in the eastern Tasman Sea. The related waves will be greatly blocked by the islands on the way which, for your convenience, I indicated as follows:
NC: New Caledonia
F: Fiji
S: Samoa
Morning sky.