Two shortboard and one longboard sessions for me yesterday. “Live every day like it was your last one”, and that’s exactly what I did yesterday.
The day started at Honolua Bay, where I took a surf guide customer. I’m specializing in “first time at the Bay, with small waves and light crowd”, this is the fourth succesfull expedition of this kind. Here’s a few shots I took before our session.
This is Rob from the east coast, visibly stoked after realizing a lifetime dream. I reminded him the etiquette rules and I made sure we weren’t in the way of anyone. He got 3-4 waves at the Bay and he’s gonna remember the day for possibly the rest of his life.
After that I drove towards the spot where I wanted to catch the big east swell, but I first stopped in Lahaina to catch a few waves with the longboard. How could I miss the opportunity to paddle out one more time my lovely nose rider on the possible last day of my life? It ended up being the best session, since it was just 2 of us riding blue, beautiful and clean knee to waist high waves (surprisingly the windswell was wrapping all the way down there).
Quite a few miles later (130 the total for the day!), I surfed this spot that was packed of ripping groms and grown up good surfers. Here’s Micah Nickens.
Kai Barger’s bottom turn.
The section is soft, but he had enough speed and aggressive approach…
…to throw a few buckets of spray.
This photo of Kai surreal. The background looks like a painting.
For a change, a little romance.
On the way back home, I stopped at Hookipa and took some more shots.
He got a double barrel on that wave. This is the exit of the second one.
I make an intensive use of my 25+ pieces wetsuit quiver. It baffles me that nobody really has a quiver of wetsuits. They don’t get old if you don’t use them, they take little room and they all offer a slightly different degree of warmth and confort. I pick them depending on the wind and sun conditions. And I’m not a fan of putting a wet one on.
4am significant buoy readings
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.8f 15s, even though yesterday I didn’t notice any long period energy. It should be more noticeable Sunday/Monday/Tuesday.
Pumping windswell at Pauwela, that’s pretty much all that is on tap today (next pulse of NW energy is due tomorrow). Hookipa and the Waiehu coast will be the spots. This last one should be well overhead, with a favorable wind prediction as illustrated below. But reality can be different and unfortunately there’s 14mph of NW wind in Kahului at 6.45am. Hopefully just a local shower. Stay tuned for a Hookipa report.
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