Saturday 1 13 18 morning call

SUP foiling and shortboard sessions for me yesterday. A beautiful windless day of waves that saw all kind of action. This is Loch Eggers in a steep drop in his canoe that didn’t end up too well. Photo by Darrel Wong.

This is the best shot Alex Aguera took of me while SUP foiling, he better stick to designing foils. Just kidding, I didn’t know he had a telelens. I still like it, since it shows the advantage of having a front foot strap while pumping the board in a flat section. Pumping is possible also without it, but you can pull the nose up easier with it.

This is the spot I surfed afterwards.

6am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.6f 10s.

North shore
NW101
15.3ft @ 19s from 326° (NW)

5ft @ 15s from 333° (NNW)

Hanalei
5.4ft @ 14s from 337° (NNW)

4.6ft @ 13s from 329° (NW)
4.5ft @ 10s from 328° (NW)
3.2ft @ 22s from 321° (NW)

Waimea
6.9ft @ 13s from 312° (NW)

2.4ft @ 22s from 317° (NW)

Pauwela

8.3ft @ 14s from 320° (NW)
1ft @ 25s from 339° (NNW)
 
First, I need to apologize about the bad call for Honolua yesterday, which wasn’t firing as I predicted. In the collage of the four reported buoys plus the Surfline forecast I put two arrows to indicate the reading at Pauwela in the moment in which I made the call (12f 15s from 326) and the reading at noon (7.5f 15s). 4.5f do make a difference, specially when the direction is a blocked one. That hump in the graph wasn’t in any forecast and I just assumed that the swell was going to stay high through the day. Instead it didn’t and Hookipa, for example, was massive at dawn and totally surfable at sunset.
 
In the same collage I also circled in red the steep rise of the new giant swell. As you can see, it just barely started in Maui, where the early morning will be mostly about the 8f 14s remaining from yesterday’s swell. As the forecast graph indicates, the rise will be felt mostly in the afternoon and the biggest waves should happen at sunset and at dawn tomorrow. Surfline calls for a peak in Maui of 21f 16s at 2am, Pat Caldwell put 20f 20s in his table for Oahu. From what I can see so far, they both seem a bit too high, but the swell is still rising, so we’ll have to wait and see.

Wind map at noon shows very light onshores, it’s gonna be calm in the morning instead.

North Pacific shows the big fetch of today’s swell now oriented mostly towards Baja.

South Pacific shows a small southerly fetch.

Morning sky shows more sunshine, but with the tail of the front associated with the swell approaching Kauai.

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