I’m back on the island and here’s the post that starts the 2019 season of the blog. As usual, I’ll do my best to share my knowledge and my stoke. Thanks everyone for the support.
Photo of the day goes to Jason who took advantage of a footstrap to punt some airs on his foilboard. Photo by Chris.
I missed out on an absolutely epic north swell, but I just couldn’t find a way to be back early enough for it. Below a random Pauwela reading in the night of the 9th. Swells of that size, period and direction happen once every 5 years, imo. Even more than that if you add the fact that there was no wind and no other swells in the water. And when it happens, every spot on the north and west shores works. Haven’t seen many photos of it, but I know it was a special one. Hope you guys enjoyed it.
4am significant buoy readings
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.
6.2ft @ 21s from 318° (NW)
3ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 13s from 347° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 13s from 357° (N)
we can expect that energy (minus the dissipation for the extra travel time) to be in Maui around noon. Consequently, I drew with a red dotted line to show how I think the swell will rise locally: very little during the early morning and very noticeable during the afternoon. As indicated by the forecast, the XL day will be tomorrow. Pretty good missed opportunity to run the Eddie, Jaws will see some action for sure.
This morning we’ll still have 4f 13 from the N to play with and the lack of wind in the early morning (see 8am wind graph below) should make for excellent conditions. I will report from Hookipa before 6.30am and to say that I’m excited is an understatement.
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