Monday 8 18 19 morning call

Last call for a while, as I leave today for a trip. Bad timing, I know, as I’m going to miss the big swell of the next few days, but this time I had family/friends time constraints and wasn’t completely free to choose when to leave. Going to Europe first and then from there eventually I’ll decide if I want to go and surf somewhere. No idea when I’ll be back, might be a month or so.

I leave you with brother Eric, here’s the funding campaign page for his new wheelchair.
Eric Walls / Ocean Connected from MAUI MEDIA CARTEL on Vimeo.

Since I’m leaving, I’m going to try to put a little extra content than usual in this post. This is obviously Kai Lenny doing his things. I had my session n.4 on a wing yesterday (once again, thanks to HST, the school where you want to go for a lesson of such thing). For the first time I used my 5.8 Kalama SUP foil board with footstraps and the improvement in the fun was remarkable (before I used my tuttle box retrofitted bigger and heavier 7.4 Starboard POD). Real easy to bring up on the foil with your feet in the straps, but I could only do that on the way out (goofy stance). Once it was time to jibe, I had the opportunity to try to learn a completely new skill for me. I’m not a snowboarder, skateboarder,  kiteboarder or freestyle windsurfer, so I have never ridden anything in “toe side stance”. I was doing the jibe no problem, switching my hands on the boom of the Duotone wing, leaving my feet in the straps, but then that position of twisted body was just too awkward to allow me keep foiling. Nothing I can’t learn, but it’ll take a few sessions.

Before the wing thing, in the morning I SUP foiled some amazingly good waves on the Lahaina side. The west swell was hitting beautifully and Guardrails had some chest to head high inconsistent very clean sets. My finger reacted badly to the double gripping session (paddle and wing), but now it’s going to rest for a while, so that’s ok. Need to do that surgery as soon as I come back, so that I can be back to freely trying everything I feel like doing.
Like foil downwinders, for example. This is a shot from
Gofoil taken in Hood River.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
1.9ft @ 13s from 224° (SW)

1.7ft @ 10s from 180° (S)                        
0.2ft @ 22s from 188° (S)

Lanai
2.8ft @ 13s from 238° (WSW)

Hanalei
2.2ft @ 12s from 281° (WNW)

West swell still at almost 3ft 13s at Lanai (which is where we care the most) while declining a bit more at the other buoys. Notice the sliver of 22s southerly energy at Barbers, which will not be visible in the water this morning (maybe at sunset), but it’s the forerunning very long period energy of tomorrow’s big swell. You guys enjoy. Meanwhile, I’ll still go to Lahaina this morning and catch some waves like this westerly beauty at the harbor. Check the webcam yourself.

North shore
Mokapu
3ft @ 9s from 86° (E)

Hookipa flat to tiny, slightly bigger on eastern exposures.

Wind map at noon.

Not much in the North Pacific.

South Pacific has a fetch in the Tasman Sea.

Morning sky.

Antiques

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