Monday 7 8 19 morning call

Yet another fantastic day of surfing on the south facing shores. This is Coconut Willie scoring a beautiful barrel at Maalaea. Photo by _kimonokaoi_.

I took out the 6.4 with the gopro mount for one of my sessions, and here’s a few stills. If the front arm wasn’t dead, this might have been a decent turn.

As I explained in yesterday’s video, duck diving with a baseball style surfing hats only requires to look down a bit more than usual to keep the bill down. Not a big deal: it’s not difficult and it doesn’t hinder the duck dive.

Short board nose ride.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore
4.5ft @ 13s from 188° (S)

3.8ft @ 15s from 188° (S)

South swell on the slow decline, but with those numbers there’s still going to be plenty waves on offer also today. The problem today is the strong trades, the area protected by them on the west side is going to be particularly small. Check the webcam before going.

North shore
3.4ft @ 10s from 329° (NW)

1.1ft @ 9s from 318° (NW)

4.9ft @ 6s from 86° (E)

4.1ft @ 13s from 96° (E)

6.1ft @ 13s from 100° (E)

5.6ft @ 7s from 98° (E)

NW buoy registers the short period NW swell due to the NW fetch we’ve observed the last couple of days. There will be some small sets in the afternoon in Maui, but I don’t think they’re going to be particularly noticeable, as the waters will be particularly rough due to the strong trades and to the easterly swell generated by Barbara, which is still pretty strong at the east facing buoys. Something to play with for the (strong) wind sports enthusiasts though.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a small/weak NW fetch and the windswell one.

South Pacific has two strong fetches. Next weekend’s swell looking big. If that section by the ice sheet is really oriented towards us (I only think so), it might be the biggest of the season so far. Surfline “only” predicts 3.3ft 18s, so maybe it isn’t.

Morning sky.

Lawn owners in Haiku will be happy about the moisture Barbara is bringing in this extremely dry summer. First time I don’t see everything green when I drove up there couple of weeks ago.