Two massages and one chiropractor adjustment later, I was good to surf again and yesterday I did that extensively. But starting today, I’m not going to report the number/kind of my sessions anymore. I started doing that to inspire people to surf more and I know I succeeded in some cases, but now I feel like taking a break from that. Also, you’ll notice that the call might not be up as early as usual every day. I noticed that time was ruling my days a bit too much. As part of my spiritual path, I need to ask myself the question “what time is it?” much less than what I do now. Also because it’s the silliest question ever, as the answer can only be: now.
No photos of the day, here’s a nice contribution by my friend Matias deep in a left barrel on Wednesday.
To even up things, that’s how a right barrel at Maalaea looks like. Photo my OneMoreFoto.
5am significant buoy readings
2ft @ 14s from 180° (S)
1.5ft @ 10s from 182° (S)
2.6ft @ 13s from 171° (S)
1.7ft @ 7s from 170° (S)
1.5ft @ 10s from 158° (SSE)
0.4ft @ 20s from 206° (SSW)
South still holding at 2.6ft 13s at Lanai, which means that also today there will be fun size waves on the Lahaina side. Notice the sliver of 20s energy from the SSW. That’s the forerunning energy of a Tasman Sea swell that lit up Fiji a few days ago. I don’t think we’ll feel that much in the water today, other than occasional very inconsistent sets, but it might become the dominant swell tomorrow. Watch for the full moon low tide in the morning and check the webcam before going. In the meantime, here’s a lovely chest high set at the Harbor. Judging from there the pack is sitting, there’s bigger sets than that.
4.3ft @ 6s from 51° (ENE)
Only short period windswell in north shore waters, Hookipa will be pretty marginal/weak, but not flat.
Wind map at noon.
No fetches in the North Pacific.
Very elongated fetch instead in the South Pacific.
I got yet another little injury (ankle sprain) yesterday while windfoiling Hookipa. My foot got stuck between the sail mast and the board when falling on a wave. Nothing I could do at that point, but […]