Friday 1 26 18 morning calls

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. This is a remarkable shot (by Tim Bonithon) of Kai Lenny in his recent foil session at Jaws. The caption was: Next step is to go way faster and much bigger!
Pretty much the opposite of what I like to do with the foil: go slower on smaller waves.

Yesterday’s clouds pay back was served at sunset. Photo by Jimmie Hepp.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.1f 10s.

North shore
NW101

5.1ft @ 11s from 287° (WNW)

Pauwela
7.2ft @ 10s from 90° (E)

3.3ft @ 13s from 2° (N)

I believe that WNW energy at the NW101 buoy is generated locally by the low pressure just north of it and will never get here. So we focus in the Pauwela buoy instead, which shows a healthy easterly windswell and a fun size N swell. The winds are going to be very favorable, so today it should be a great day of surfing. Size doesn’t matter, what counts is how clean the waves are. In my opinion, at least. And that’s why I’m here posting the Windguru 10 days table to show that finally those stubborn easterly trades are going to give way to some calm, muggy days.

Wind map at noon shows a southerly around the island, but with onshore breezes in the protected shores.

North Pacific shows three fetches: W, N and E.

Too bad there’s nothing in the South Pacific, otherwise it could have been an around the compass day of wave generation.

Morning sky.

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