Friday 1 12 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a SUP sessions for me yesterday. Last one was interesting, since it had been a while I didn’t ride waves with a SUP without the foil. The first times you foil, you do the mistake of putting too much pressure on the rails. When you learn, the amount of pressure on the rail to achieve the turns is very subtle, as the foil is extremely sensitive to that.

Yesterday instead I was doing the opposite mistake: not enough pressure on the rails. It took me the whole session to get used again to lift the back foot and place it way back and on the rail to achieve the turns. But when I finally did, it was a lot of fun. Doing only one discipline (like most foilers I know) is a mistake, imo. Also because you go from enlarging the pool of toys and conditions you can enjoy with your quiver, to actually shrinking it. Obviously, it’s a personal choice, but I’ll keep doing everything I know how to do and choose the discipline based on:
– ocean conditions
– mood
– fitness conditions
– personal preference.

Hookipa at sunset had some solid bombs. The light was marginal, but the new camera performed quite badly. I think this is the worse of the three I owned so far and I might have to return it and get another one. It’ll depend on today’s performance. This is a bomb a Lanes, if you can see it.

A flick of the hair is a proper claim for a pretty good barrel at the point.

4-5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.6 11s.

North shore
NW101
8.5ft @ 15s from 308° (WNW)

Waimea
11.8ft @ 14s from 317° (NW)

Pauwela

11.9ft @ 15s from 326° (NW)
3.4ft @ 8s from 71° (ENE)

12f 15s locally is a massive number, today most of the north shore will be unsurfable already, with the exception of Jaws, of course. Don’t expect a Hookipa beach report, there’s no need for it: too big. I’ll be driving around searching for a surfable spot, other than the Kahului harbor, but I’m not sure there will be any. Obviously, the west side will be the place offering a better variety of sizes. Honolua will be firing too.
Below are the graphs of Pauwela and the Surfline forecast that for today was well under (9f instead of 12f). Tomorrow, mo’ bigger, but maybe not quite in the early morning.

Wind map at noon finally shows no wind.

North Pacific shows the strong and close NW fetch responsible for the weekend giant swell.

A fetch like that deserves an old school weather map. The longer, more parallel and closer to each other are the isobar, the bigger the swell. Other factors are width of the fetch and vicinity and this fetch has them all. That’s why it will be the biggest swell of the season so far.

South Pacific shows a southerly fetch oriented towards east of us. Hopefully we’ll get some angular spreading.

Morning sky. The stretch of spectacular weather continues.

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